It was another early start. This breakfast time photo (around 7 a.m.) shows the rising sun beginning to light up the mountains where Petra is situated. Breakfasts, I have to say, were not the sort of things you might eat at home - whilst boiled eggs or omelettes were fine, to be faced with various heaps of salad (lovely though they were), coleslaw, huge black olives the size of small plums, feta cheese, hummus, yoghurt and various unidentified stews when you have not the least inclination to eat anything (my appetite kicks in around 10 a.m. at home), my plate was pretty empty, though we did have a couple of days of a more Continental breakfast with cold meats and cheeses.
Well, the good Lord was listening when my yearning to ride at Petra was recognized, and apparently riding half a mile or so along the first part of the track to Petra was included as an option, although we had to pay for it. We were told 3 JD, but the pony "boys" insisted on more - I got away with 6 JD, as that was all I had in my pocket. Gabby got the grey shown here, who was elderly and sensible. I got given the little (13.1hh or so) dark chestnut hooligan. I didn't want to be led, and managed to communicate I rode and had had horses of my own. He threw me the bit of blue binder twine, but I asked to have the reins untied. Once I was in control, the pony decided all the oats it had had for breakfast (hay is needless to say not made in Jordan and very expensive, so oats it is) had gone to its head and we jig-jogged to the left, we jig-jogged to the right and it had clearly no comprehension of the British "aids" (how we communicate with our horses when we ride - hands, legs, seat etc). That pony and I were not reading from the same hymn sheet!! Nor was there a proper saddle - just a bundle of rags over something keeping a girth and stirrups in place. There was not much pony to sit on either - his ribs were narrow and he was what I would call "slab sided"! I was rather glad to get off, tbh, but that was one of my lifetime ambitions achieved :) Whilst it was not quite the Indiana Jones on a lovely Arab galloping in and out of Petra, it was the best Fate could do!!
We passed these Nabatean rock-cut tombs on the way down.
There were CATS! Really friendly ones too. This one reminded me of dear old Ghengis and Morning's Minion's Willis.
Well, what can I say? Just going into the narrow gorge was mindblowing. The photos just don't do it justice, and as it unfolded, the scalloped sandstone rocks, the glimpses of cloudless blue sky above were amazing.
Early Nabataean rock-cut niches.
We arrived to find a couple of well-turned-out camels were laying down, waiting for people to have rides on them.
Moi, in front of the Treasury. Oh my goodness, what an absolutely amazing building, hewn from the rock with just hammer and chisel and lots of strong and talented young masons. You can see the Hellenistic influence in every pillar and frieze and carving. The use of many funerary symbols carved into the facade, show that it was associated with the Nabataean cult of the dead. This architectural style came from their trading exploits. The "pockmark slot" either side were made by later Iconoclasts who destroyed whatever images offended them. (Much like the Reformation in Britain). There was a big circular ball on the top of the topmost central "tholos", beneath which stands a female figure carrying a Cornucopia - this would be Tyche, the Greek goddess of fortune. Over the last few centuries, tribesmen with guns believed it to be full of treasure, and much of the shape has been shot away - pointlessly. On the pediment below, is the device of Isis, supreme Egyptian goddess who with her consort Osiris, ruled the Underworld.
I have more photos on my phone camera, but can't seem to access them as I think I am out of storage, so have to wait until Tam's here to sort it all out for me.
There was an ancient city here, of some 30,000 people and a water supply was piped into the city along the gorge we had just come through, which had channels to guide the water and on one side, earthenware pipes to give a better water pressure. Ravines at the sides had been blocked to stop the flash floods which can happen in winter. Tourists have been killed in them - so I'm glad we were at the end of the rainy season. Do visit the link - it is quite terrifying.
More cats. They were tiny, so slender, and several had really slanted or almond eyes, which apparently helps them hunt in bright sunshine. They were SO friendly. The stall-holders here fed them on slivers of Feta cheese. I imagine they were incredibly inbred.
I don't know how you reached that first step!!
There were Nabataean tombs all along the length of the valley, which opened out after the Treasury. If you look at the top of the one above, you will see steps, which are the classic Nabataean tomb design. There there was also an amphitheatre further down, which had been used for meetings, and dated from the 1st C. The Romans later added a stage. I couldn't get a decent photo.
Gabs and I. The thick quilted coat/jacket we were wearing were necessary first thing in the day when it was very cold. As it warmed up, these were shed - it was a 5 mile walk from beginning to end, plus some up and downy bits for us. A 24,000 step day.
These were the rather small donkeys/mules who their owners were desperately trying to get us to ride on to get up the 900 steps to the Monastery. We declined. They were not up to taking fully grown people, let alone up a mountain. Note - no water offered, and as for food - well, barely a dried tuft of anything hereabouts.
So, after a buffet or sandwich lunch, we chose to walk back via the Byzantine church, which had this lovely mosaic (and its own cat which we heard yowling in the background).
Above, one of the beautiful capitals. If anyone is wondering, did I do lots of sketching, the answer is NO. We didn't have time. Some places we only had 15 or 20 minutes to explore, and it was pretty full-on all the time. We only really got a bit more relaxation when we got to the Dead Sea and there I relaxed properly for the first time. So I will have to use my photos to work from.
The guide had mentioned that if we were going to take in the Byzantine church, to get back to the main route, we would have to "cross an iron bridge." Remember what I said about no health and safety rules here - it was all down to common sense.
Well, below is that "iron bridge" . . .
Gabby was having a hissy fit, as she had looked down and wasn't keen on the idea of walking across the iron mesh reinforcement used in concrete. . . It was a good 30 foot drop into the bottom of the ravine. The two scaffolding poles weren't very reassuring either. This is where my confidence got a gigantic kick up the backside and taking my courage in both hands, I walked straight across it, careful NOT to look down! It really was QUITE a drop and I didn't realize how deep it was until I was on the other side. Gabby came slowly and was amazed that I just hoofed it, appearing not the least bit bothered. That was the turning point for me - no such word as can't.
Now this is a strange photo. Was there something in there? I took another photo immediately after and nothing there - so not a smear on the lens. Opposite was a larger Nabataean tomb which Gabby's pony boy had told her had Djinns in - perhaps this one had nipped across the track for a change of four walls!!
We visited the Museum which is great (see LINK) I took lots of photos but will put some up tomorrow, as this is already photo-heavy. Then we found the Cave Bar and slaked our thirst. We were in one of the little niches at the side (not in photo). Never has a glass of lager tasted SO good. This was where I learned to laugh again too - can't even remember what over, but there was much hilarity and I am nearly my old self again.
P.S. I suddenly became aware that there were more birds than the Pigeons and (Jordanian) Sparrows we had seen thus far. Gabby spotted the most beautiful little bird - a Palestinian Sunbird, which has quite a restricted local range. It was SO lovely - black with an irridescent blue/purple head and neck. For the rest of the holiday, I was in bird-spotting mode. Not many flowers for my Botany interest, but I saw a few which I need to identify now I'm home.
I hope you sat down with a cup of coffee for this post . . .
