A stroll round Ledbury - and Titian's "The Last Supper"

 

As I was on my own, I stopped in Ledbury for a stroll around (and the purchase of a bottle each of excellent Dunkerton's cider and perry).  Here is the amazing Market House, dating from 1668. 

Looking up cobbled Church Lane towards the church of St Michael and All Saints.

Above and below - this house has been moved a couple of times, but it's good that its vernacular architecture was appreciated and saved.

The old Grammar School, now a local Heritage Centre.

Display cabinet contents inside the Grammar School.

The Parish church of St Michael and all Angels, Ledbury. Pevsner thought very highly of it, writing that it was the "premier parish church in Herefordshire."  Unusually, the bell tower stands entirely separately from the church. It dates from 1230, although the spire wasn't added until 1733. You could go in it, but the thought of climbing steps inside discouraged me!  The core of the church is 12th C, but it was extended and "refinished" in the12th and 16th C.

The memorial of the 3rd Baron Biddulph of Ledbury.  The Biddulphs were a banking family and very much associated with Ledbury.  They have an entire end of one aisle given over to their memorials and protected by railings.

Medieval carvings which were somehow saved. 

Glorious stained glass, but the sun wasn't behind it, sadly.

One of the fragments of the much earlier church. At first look I thought it was a Green Man, but note there is a baby dragon or beastie or angel? curled around his shoulders. Unless that is luscious foliage? Suggestions on an postcard please.

Not sure who this was meant to be but skilfully sculptured.

One of the two fonts. An earlier (17th C) font was found beneath this smashed to bits but then restored.  I will find it on my next visit.

I am, I must confess, not really a follower of modern stained glass.  There is some in Hereford Cathedral where they were spot on, but this did nothing for me.  In fact, it reminded me of illustrations in one of my Victorian horse books where they show the muscles of the horse! 

Finally, what the church has become very famed for in recent years, when their dark and discoloured painting of The Last Supper, was tested and examined and researched, and a signature by Titian was found and it was attributed to his workshop.  It had been gifted to the church in 1909.  The link will take you to a BBC piece about it.  You may have seen the programme on tv where they covered the investigation.  Keith is very keen to see it, so I will have to work out how I can drive close enough - well, I know that I can, but it's which route to take.  

I am currently reading Elly Griffith's The Midnight Hour, having just finished Ann Cleeves' The Long call, set in North Devon.  I am also currently trying to stay awake having been down since 5 a.m.!

Keith's blood tests all came back normal, including the thyroid levels one.  He is still fatigued but managed a longer walk yesterday without it knocking him for 6, AND he has regained much of the weight he had lost, which is encouraging.  We're now waiting for appointments for another MRI scan and a more urgent (2 yr waiting list apparently) appointment with the Neurology dept.

Enjoy the sunshine all.