Wednesday 20 April 2022

A stroll round Ledbury - and Titian's "The Last Supper"

 

As I was on my own, I stopped in Ledbury for a stroll around (and the purchase of a bottle each of excellent Dunkerton's cider and perry).  Here is the amazing Market House, dating from 1668. 


Looking up cobbled Church Lane towards the church of St Michael and All Saints.




Above and below - this house has been moved a couple of times, but it's good that its vernacular architecture was appreciated and saved.



The old Grammar School, now a local Heritage Centre.




Display cabinet contents inside the Grammar School.





The Parish church of St Michael and all Angels, Ledbury. Pevsner thought very highly of it, writing that it was the "premier parish church in Herefordshire."  Unusually, the bell tower stands entirely separately from the church. It dates from 1230, although the spire wasn't added until 1733. You could go in it, but the thought of climbing steps inside discouraged me!  The core of the church is 12th C, but it was extended and "refinished" in the12th and 16th C.





The memorial of the 3rd Baron Biddulph of Ledbury.  The Biddulphs were a banking family and very much associated with Ledbury.  They have an entire end of one aisle given over to their memorials and protected by railings.


Medieval carvings which were somehow saved. 








Glorious stained glass, but the sun wasn't behind it, sadly.


One of the fragments of the much earlier church. At first look I thought it was a Green Man, but note there is a baby dragon or beastie or angel? curled around his shoulders. Unless that is luscious foliage? Suggestions on an postcard please.



Not sure who this was meant to be but skilfully sculptured.


One of the two fonts. An earlier (17th C) font was found beneath this smashed to bits but then restored.  I will find it on my next visit.



I am, I must confess, not really a follower of modern stained glass.  There is some in Hereford Cathedral where they were spot on, but this did nothing for me.  In fact, it reminded me of illustrations in one of my Victorian horse books where they show the muscles of the horse! 


Finally, what the church has become very famed for in recent years, when their dark and discoloured painting of The Last Supper, was tested and examined and researched, and a signature by Titian was found and it was attributed to his workshop.  It had been gifted to the church in 1909.  The link will take you to a BBC piece about it.  You may have seen the programme on tv where they covered the investigation.  Keith is very keen to see it, so I will have to work out how I can drive close enough - well, I know that I can, but it's which route to take.  




I am currently reading Elly Griffith's The Midnight Hour, having just finished Ann Cleeves' The Long call, set in North Devon.  I am also currently trying to stay awake having been down since 5 a.m.!

Keith's blood tests all came back normal, including the thyroid levels one.  He is still fatigued but managed a longer walk yesterday without it knocking him for 6, AND he has regained much of the weight he had lost, which is encouraging.  We're now waiting for appointments for another MRI scan and a more urgent (2 yr waiting list apparently) appointment with the Neurology dept.

Enjoy the sunshine all.


16 comments:

  1. What an amazing town and how exciting to find a Titian in the church. That figure reminds me of the early Etruscan figure carrying a sheep over his shoulders, or Hermes carrying the boy god (forget which one). Thanks for the tour.

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    1. I am still doing some research to try and find out more about it and the other head study. Good suggestion though Tom.

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  2. Okay, your description of those stained glass windows made me laugh out loud. That is a wonderful church. Something that always strikes me is based on the number of churches, each with their own pipe organ, it seems to me that on Sunday morning, the entire UK should begin to vibrate.

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    1. This church has a splendid Organ too - one suitable for such a large building. I think you may have something with the Sunday vibes!

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  3. So some of the carvings are from the Herefordshire School of carving Jennie? that face definitely is. Glad Keith is doing better, something seems to be working with him. It must be lovely for you to live in such a rich area of medieval churches and carvings.

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    1. I don't think Ledbury has any - certainly not surviving anyway. The distribution is governed to a degree by the patronage of the Norman Lords of the Welsh Marches who paid for it. The next post - Castle Frome - is the flagship for the skills of the Herefordshire craftsmen. We are so fortunate to be on the border here with access to so many wonderful churches -from a sculpture point of view as well as intricate roodscreens and painted church walls.

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  4. Had to find Ledbury on the map, looks a bit of a way from where you live. You certainly find some really nice churches, sort of reminds me of St Helen which I featured last week Huge but the Knighton is big for a village church as well. You showed some nice detail of the church. Had to take my son for a scan the other week in Oxford. The just phoned up and told him a date, time and place. Turned out to be on a business park in a mobile scanner. He has not had the results yet but will find out soon enough. He goes to the Neurology dept in the JR at Oxford so apart from taking him for his treatment that will be another trip there, no wonder I hate the place

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    1. Ledbury's over an hour from here - nearly an hour and a half as Malvern is an hour and forty minutes and they're about 7 miles apart. My assumption is that local money = big churches.

      Sorry your son has needed a scan and is under the Neurology dept at Oxford. Worrying times for you I'm sure.

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  5. Dunkertons is a stones throw from where my sister lives near Pembridge. I am glad that it is now a popular cider. I remember my samplings of it very well, given by Mr Dunkerton himself ( he has been gone a few years now) and walking with my husband along the lane completely three sheets to the winds. Ledbury I remember very well also, as I worked as a nanny in the near by village of Bosbury. I was a new driver at age 18 when I went the wrong way down a one way street.

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    1. Pembridge is beautiful. I intend to go to Eardisley soon (church). I bet you're still smiling at the memory of Mr Dunkerton plying you with cider samples. It's pretty strong for a cider! I have the Perry for tomorrow night.

      We had hoped to move to the Ledbury area but of course it is a Nice Town so house prices are always higher in a desirable area.

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  6. A very interesting town and church and its been on my list to visit for years! I like some modern stained glass - Tom Denny's work is sublime and I also like Yoxall and Whitford. A few Millennium windows I have seen in churches have been rather lovely.
    I like Dunkerton's Cider - it is based near Pembridge another lovely village and church.
    Glad Keith's blood tests were ok and hope you don't havae to wait too long for the other appts.

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    1. I hope that you get there soon - not that far from Bromyard and plenty for your other half to see whilst you're in the church. I am not at al learned about modern stained glass makers.

      Waiting to get another MRI date now and have decided to go privately for an initial Neurology assessment as time is not on our side.

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  7. What a lovely town. The church pictures are amazing.

    God bless.

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    1. It is indeed a lovely town. Some beautiful buildings throughout.

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  8. Have to admit, my first thought about the stained glass window was exactly the same as yours. Great minds, eh? Either that or we've spent too much time in medical books.

    Happy to hear Keith has had some improvement. Here's to better days.

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    1. I'm glad someone else saw it as I did. Yuk!

      Keith is still pretty up and down. His energy levels are low and he only manages to walk better when he's not feeling so exhausted.

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