Just this one photo shows what a special place this is. That barrel vaulted ceiling (late 15C) and the fabulous rood screen and loft. As you can see, the walls are liberally adorned with panels of texts and earlier paintings such as a Royal coat of arms and a Doom Figure. This is a Grade I listed church and you can easily see why.
The font - well, what can I say. This is a survivor from the much earlier church dedicated by Herewald prior to the Norman invasion. It dates from c. 1055. "The rim is carved with two rolls terminating in leaves, and inside this the inscription MENHIR ME FECIT I (N) TE (M) PORE GENILLIN in Hiberno-Saxon miniscules. Cynhillin was Lord of Ystrad Yw." (Pevsner: Powys). Ystrad Yw is a parish a couple of miles out of Crickhowell. It is perhaps the oldest font in Wales. (National Churches Trust).
The parish chest doesn't merit a mention with Pevsner but Tam and I thought it probably 13th/early 14th C. It was hewn from a complete oak tree and now contains cleaning things rather than anything liturgical!
The faded remains of the Royal coat of Arms.17 is so young to die.
A pretty flower arrangement at the bottom of the rood screen shows the church is still much-loved and cared for.
An amazing survivor. Mind you, this is 4 1/2 miles out of Crickhowell and so perhaps Cromwell's lot weren't even aware of its existence. It dates to c.1500. There are some similarities to the beautiful rood screen at St Margaret's but this is crisper and more detailed and has the lovely tracery too. "The parapet itself is of muntin with panels of Late Perp tracery patterning which strengthens the screen's shimmery character." (Pevsner).
Details. No faces as you have at St Margaret's, but dragon snouts instead, covering the joins with the beams!! The carvers had such fun making these.Beautiful crisp vines and "water leaf" but muggins here missed the dragons at the ends which Pevsner writes about (there's always something you miss). I must return to find them. . . and enjoy the wonderful atmosphere again. Apparently I also missed the apostle figures too . . .
There are apparently 14 memorials dating from between 1757 and 1804,and many with strongly coloured and gilded floral borders, all the work of the Brute family and their followers.
Looking towards the Altar.
Memorial windows dedicated to Caroline and John Powell, of the parish.
The colours in this little side window were magical.
The steep hill we climbed up, having parked where 3 other cars were parked. I wasn't sure if there would be a parking space by the church and places to turn were few and far between. Apparently the Holy Well is just where we parked - one responsible for at least two miracles: a leper was cured by its waters back in the 11th C and left a bag of gold in grateful thanks - which was used to build the church. In more recent times a woman had had an operation on her foot and was still in great pain, until visiting the well (and presumably bathing her foot in it), whereupon the pain receded . . .
At the churchyard cross, it is written that Giraldus Cambrensis accompanied Archbishop Baldwin, who preached here in 1188. Their tour of Wales was to raise awareness of the Crusade Campaign and presumably gather men to fight in its cause.
This is perhaps my favourite church of all those that I have visited in our part of the world. It is certainly very special and worth journeying to.
It is the most special church in the best spot. We have visited twice now in 2017 and 2021 and I would love to visit this part of Wales again - I love the churches, the landscape, the completely unspoilt nature - and really it isn’t that far for us if we stay for three or four nights. On our last visit in September 2021 we got home from Usk in just under three hours with only one stop for a drink and a stretch of the legs 45 minutes from home. Certainly beats last year’s 7-hours of driving to Frenchman’s Creek, although that was a special holiday staying in the Landmark Trust cottage but a bit of a hairy scary drive down to the cottage! Like you I am now the sole driver so am very mindful of distance. Mind you our son cycled from Coventry over three days this last weekend. They cycled around 90km a day over the Cotswolds and Wessex Downs, camping overnight and cooking their own food, but he was a tired lad last night! Thanks for the lovely photos. How far are the churches of Cwmjoy and Patricio from you in Builth? We were on our usual picnic (Selsey crab sandwiches!) cycle yesterday and at our favourite church at Barlavington we were surprised to see a party of four picnicking in the churchyard. We got chatting and they’d come down from Dorking with their Canadian cousins to experience the beautiful walks around our patch. I thought that was testament to the loveliness of where we live now compared to our 26 years in the Surrey Hills near Dorking. We’re off to Standen today, the Philip Webb house with its wonderful William Morris textiles and wallpapers, de Morgan ceramics and lovely hillside garden. Should take us about 45 mins if I’m not too slow - I rarely go above 50mph on our country roads! I really should resurrect my blog so I can share photos. Sarah x
ReplyDeleteWe're an hour from Patrishow and 1 hr 15 mins from Cwmyoy (going the Hay, Gospel Pass route). I do hope you will visit again and we can meet up perhaps? 7 hrs from Frenchman's Creek isn't possibly on the top of your do again list I'm guessing! Your son and his friend must be very fit but probably glad to get off the bike when they got home.
ReplyDeleteOooh, haven't had fresh crab sandwiches since I was on Guernsey - 40 years ago now!
Off to look up the Philip Webb house at Standen. If you are ever up this way (Usk or wherever), Wightwick Manor is doable. A true testament to all things Arts & Crafts and a fabulous display of William de Morgan ceramics. I'd love to go again, but it's too far a journey for Keith now.
PLEASE resurrect your blog!
Another wonderful post BB - the church is so very special and I can understand why its your favourite. You can sense the tranquil atmosphere from your photos. There is so much of interest to see inside and the font and the rood screen - I am in raptures here!!!! I've checked it would take us about an hour and twenty minutes according to google map directions but that always seem to under estimate so probably 90 minutes so it is do-able. The holy well just adds to the appeal too.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for sharing. I have bookmarked the pages.
Even when I remember to make a list of features to look for before I go I still always miss things!!!!!!
You have GOT to visit Patrishow RR, even if it means going on your own! It has the most amazing atmosphere - I would compare it with that in the Lady Chapel at Hereford. You can sense the prayers which have been sent into the ether there.
DeleteI have to return there, and take Keith.
This one is quite special with that rood screen and loft, can you access it? The loft looks similar to St Anno's The church is out of the way up the hillside but I may well try and visit sometime, this one I do want to visit as well St Ellyw's, Llanelieu,
ReplyDeleteI did notice a little stairway which would have gone up to the rood loft once. I think the bottom was blocked off though. The loft is similar to St Anno's, you're right. St Ellyw's is fascinating too, but watch out for the bat droppings everywhere. Go around the time of the Talgarth Walking Festival as they clean it out then!
DeleteSuch a beautiful building...it must have been glorious with its original paintwork
ReplyDeleteIt was just part of the landscape and truly belonged there.
DeleteA magnificent church and a lovely setting! The rood screen is amazing, and thank goodness it survived. I missed so many places like this when I lived in England, though I did travel around and twice through Wales. Just too much to see and not enough time there! You have found some wonderful churches and countryside.
ReplyDeleteI think some of the really remote churches just ignored dictats from the powers that be, and refused to destroy such things of beauty. You're right, too much to see when you are holidaying somewhere. You need to live here for a year or ten!
DeleteDefinitely a gorgeous church. That font and the rood screen are absolutely gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteGod bless.
Such a beautiful place. I love the carvings. Thanks for posting.
ReplyDelete