Journal entry: Then on to Wadi Rum - we drove to several parts of the magnificent desert and mountains - unique. We travelled in 4x4 pickups (it helped to be reasonably limber as they didn't let the tailgate down so you had to climb in, but they did back up to higher ground to make it easier). Bench seats, I've sat on more comfortable!
We stopped in the desert where there was a big Bedouin tent. They served us herbal teas and told us about Frankincense and we had the opportunity to buy some perfumed oils (passed on this). You can't see the steepness of the dune in front of this rocky outcrop, but several people clambered up it.
The desert somewhat spoilt by the camping experience domes etc round every corner. Now tourism is down 85%, many of them rarely used these days I should think. Ours was the one nearest the main road . . .
You can see my pashmina in this photo.
One of the 4x4's.
Our accommodation was in a nice spot, comfy "tents" with all mod cons and I am glad I didn't pack a sleeping bag as recommended, as there was a heavy throw to go over the duvet, and central heating from a generator. We were too hot! The bed was VERY hard and only had one marshmallow pillow. There was a generous bathroom, but the only lighting was a bright central bulb up in the roof of the tent.
When we arrived, it was Camel Riding Time. O.M.G. They looked at your height/weight and you were allotted the appropriate camel. Gabs and I got the ones which felt like 18 hh horse and by the time the saddle was on top, 20hh!! I felt VERY high up an there wasn't much padding between me and the wooden tree of the camel saddle - NOT comfy. Several had Army Surplus grey blankets for padding, and another a quilted bedcover. Gabby's saddle had a 2" nail sticking out of the back and I got the giggles over this. She managed to bend it round so it wasn't quite so uncomfortable!
(Camel riding - I took a video of this on my phone, and other videos but they have gone missing, along with lots of photos. I will have to look into my phone again and try and make some storage space in the photos).
Well, I can honestly say not the BEST riding experience of my life. We all got the giggles something rotten when various camels lolled their "tongues" out and exhaled loudly - the resultant noise was quite disgusting and we couldn't stop laughing. Apparently it is what male camels do in the mating season . . . and it is not their tongue but a "dulla" which is to attract females. Our made much louder gurgles!
The worst bit. Of course, the camels knew the routine off by heart and as soon as Gabby had got off her camel (she was ahead of me), mine dropped like it was poleaxed with no warning at all! I swiftly grabbed both front and back poles of the saddle and managed to sprain my left wrist holding onto the back, but it saved me falling off!
We rode for an hour - ostensibly to see the sunsetting, but this was the best the sky could do.
They lit the rocks up at night, which made a lovely backdrop.
The meat part of the buffet - chickens and joints of lamb (or mutton) was cooked in a fire pit.
I did have a video of them uncovering it and lifting it out.
The desert in the morning light. This was where they filmed Lawrence of Arabia - I bought the video on my return, and greatly enjoyed watching it again.
This is a WW1 engine (now converted to diesel), and in the "good old days" tourists could ride on it for a fee, and they would do re-enactments of the Ottomans (Turks) attacking it.
Next morning a couple from our group had to be dropped off at a (very posh) hotel in Aqaba. O.M.G. - I had been seeing signs for Aqaba and thinking, if only we could go there. . . my wish was granted. Talk about travelling in Lawrence of Arabia's footsteps . . . I have to say, anyone who can ride 600 miles across the desert on a camel gets my deepest respect. He only had 45 men with him too - they set off with water and 45 lbs of flour . . . They were joined by about 1000 other men as they neared Aqaba and virtually wiped out the Ottoman forces in the Battle of Aqaba - only two Arab fighters died.Middle of Tuesday night now. I was up at 6 a.m. and on the road to Tam's at 7 a.m. yesterday, to babysit Rosie for the morning as Tam is now back at work part time (3 days a week). I have to do this on Mondays throughout March, then hopefully Jon's mum will take over. Tam could only get one day's child care, which is a shame, as it's a lovely child minder too. She didn't know that you had to get booked in the moment you were pregnant! Anyway, Rosie and I survived. I get the full day from now on (and in the holidays too). That is going to be tiring, with the long drive either end. I was in bed at 8.30!
Oh gosh, this was such an adventurous holiday for you both. You're braver than me getting on a camel and going for a ride. You're not going to forget this holiday in a hurry are you. :-)
ReplyDeleteIt truly was the holiday of a lifetime and will stay sharp in my memory. The vast distant views were just breathtaking, and I now know why Keith always said the desert was beautiful.
ReplyDelete