In early August, when my friend Gay was staying, we stopped here on our way to Presteigne. I had wanted to visit ever since reading Phil Rickman's "The Heresy of Dr Dee" which I heartily recommend. It is set in nearby Presteigne and centres of the Battle of Pilleth, in 1402, between Owain Glyndwr (who held the high ground) and Sir Edmund Mortimer, after which the fallen English bodies were left to rot on the hillside for centuries. Subsequently, in Victorian times I believe, the bones were finally laid to rest in the churchyard and some Wellingtonia trees were planted to mark the spot.
The Lugg valley is so peaceful now, it is hard to imagine that such a bloody battle was fought here, and after the carnage of the battle, it was rumoured that the Welsh women camp followers took their revenge on the English bodies "for acts of brutality during King Henvy IV's wars against them". I will leave you to draw your own conclusions just what form that revenge took. HERE and on Wikipedia HERE is a fuller picture of the battle.
Fighting was fierce around the church, which Glyndwr's men set fire to. You can see the old roof line here, which was lowered during work in 1911. The tower is probably 15th C.
The font is 14th C and despite damage, survived the Battle in 1402.
The church is very simple, and full of light from the clear glass windows. An entry in Archaeologica Cambrensis in 1847 notes that the medieval screen was still in existence but that the square wooden window in the East wall was ready to fall out. Extensive renovation was carried out in 1872/3 by G Potter, but there was a disastrous fire only 20 years later reduced the church to little more than the tower and ruined walls. A poppy-headed pew and a pulpit survive in nearby Whitton Church.
The Holy Well, once roofed, and completely dry this summer, is behind the church, with a Clooty tree decked out beside it. As we passed on along the back wall of the church I felt the most unpleasant atmosphere and my head felt like it was in a vice. Gay said she picked up on this atmosphere too. I rather think Culloden isn't a good place to visit either. . .
I was up from 1.30 - 3.45 in the night, unable to sleep, worried about Theo. This morning, fed up with who will eat what and having even tempting sachets of expensive cat food left uneaten (apart from the Felix Soup which Theo loves) I opened a tin of cheap Tesco chunks in gravy for them and Theo tucked in with a will and even ate a few biscuits. It came to me in the night that he had been like this a few years back when his ears had been bad with mites - he was swaying about with it then because it had affected his balance and he wouldn't/couldn't eat. Then all of a sudden, one day he was eating normally again and made a complete recovery. I am praying this will be the case this time too.
Something spooky in the churchyard? A lot of souls killed too young, war in those times was pretty savage and cruel. Enjoyed the read though, should be called Whitchurch to reflect its colour.
ReplyDeleteDEFINITELY!! Poor souls - I felt like I'd been hit very hard in the head. Did you read the novel by Phil Rickman? He really bought it all alive.
ReplyDeleteWow, the spooky atmosphere - very intriguing
ReplyDeleteEverything crossed for Theo
Alison in Wales x
Hi Alison. There was such loathing for the English from the Welsh (and probably it was reciprocated) that it's not surprising that there is an imprint left, through the violence of the battle.
DeleteTheo is eating little and often, but no biscuits please . . .
Don't even think about visiting where the Berserker army was unjustly massacred in Iceland then.
ReplyDeletehugs for Theo.
Oh gosh, bet that was grim. Not something I've heard of so I must ask Keith, who is sure to know of it.
DeleteI often find that if you are sensitive to the historical connections to a place you can pick up 'vibes' or 'feelings' and they are not necessarily nice sensations. I've had that at battles sites or at old churches where something in it's past has been quite horrific. (Trumpan church on the Vaternish Peninsular, Skye is such place for me)
ReplyDeleteWow - just looked up the history of Trumpan church - I can see why it's so atmospheric. I imagine that McDonald is not a popular name thereabouts to this day. I remember the Fairy Flag - isn't it kept in Dunvegan Castle? My dad used to say when he was in the Army in WWII, they had a lot of Scottish soldiers, and when one name was mentioned (McBone? - no just looked it up and it was Bean), the soldiers always spat afterwards. This is because the clan were renowned for killing and eating their victims.
DeleteInteresting about the spooky atmosphere - I will have to make a note in case I visit and see if I feel the same. I have the Dr Dee book on my kindle to read. I think read about the battle and the acts of the women on the English bodies in one of the books I have on the Mortimers. Apart from the nasty atmosphere! good to see a church full of natural light. Thanks for all the photos.
ReplyDeleteI do hope you will visit there. It is a very special little church, and fits in with your interest in the Mortimers.
DeleteI have a book recommendation for you BB, and perhaps it’s one that K may enjoy reading too. It is “To Calais, In Ordinary Time” by James Meek. We read it for book group last year and it was a very good read and satisfying on many levels. Meanwhile, another church to put on my list to explore one day. Have you had rain today? Cannot believe that last night at book group we were sitting outside until 10pm while this afternoon has been so rainy and gloomy. I have even started knitting! We did our usual 10 mile loop on the bikes this morning but our mossy log in the Dingly Dell was too damp for sitting so instead we did some yoga stretches. After coffee in the garden I set to and cleared the greenhouse border of everything except the chillies and prepped it for sowing winter salads. Tonight I made a delicious curry using garlic, beans, spinach, potatoes all from the garden and home made tikka masala sauce mostly made with tomatoes. The garden produce this year has been insane and I didn’t even water it, just lashing of good old garden compost and an occasional can of comfrey tea. The garden grass has erupted with dandelion leaves and I may dig up some roots with my hori hori knife and consult Sarah Head for a recipe. Hope you’re having a nice evening and Theo is back on form very soon. Sarah x
ReplyDeleteOh dear, I am very susceptible to book recommendations - this sounds very good and I have just had an Ebay moment and a copy is heading our way. Thankyou! The weather is changeable and the Met Office predictions mercurial. Easier just to have a piece of seaweed outside the back door! I'm glad your garden has been so prolific. I have inherited one with an underlayer of rubble so it needs lots more topsoil to make it more obliging to growth. I have, however, had several clumps of Comfrey come through this year from someone's plantings in the past, and they will be helpful next season. That curry sounds good. I have the 2nd half of a boughten one for my meal tonight, whilst Keith has the rest of the Steak pie I made last night in which he got all the meat by the sound of things!
DeleteI've not been following Sarah Head recently. She used to comment on my blog when we were at Ynyswen and was very helpful about sleeping problems, if I remember rightly.
I found Culloden gave me chills and I thought I could hear the very faint sound of bagpipes. I am pretty sure I would feel the same chill at this church as well. I need to read up on this battle.
ReplyDeleteGod bless.
Hi Jackie - I think battle sites are saturated with what happened there on that day in history. The more sensitive amongst us pick up on it. I think Culloden would be a very atmospheric place to visit.
DeleteI found your description of disorientation at Culloden very interesting. Once at a civil war battlefield (Antietam), I felt a jarring dissonance that is impossible to describe. They were setting up a stage for a symphony orchestra coming in to play, and the workmen were playing music. The song, "I hope the Russians Love Their Children Too" was blaring across the battlefield, and it just seemed as if the past sadness and the hints of future sadness were almost crashing together. It just seemed very sad that we have not yet learned anything from war.
ReplyDeleteWhat I felt was just exhausted. Too tired to walk. It was just so hot.
The idea of bones left on the hillside for centuries was an awful thought. As always, thank you for bringing us along. I enjoy these little trips.
PS Thank you for the tip on ear mites. A recent addition to my little band of ferals walks strangely, low to the ground, weaving. I was suspecting earmites. Your description of Theo cemented it. I'm going to try the ivermectin again. It was successful in treating the cat with mange. It is suggested as a treatment for earmites as well. Wish me luck!
ReplyDeleteThe Ivermectin should work. Theo was treated with a combination treatment which does ear mites, fleas and intestinal worms. All in one go. Hope the Ivermectin works on your little chap.
DeleteI haven't seen Ginger for 3 days now. I'm a little worried for her.
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