The sunken land of Cantre'r Gwaelod . . . .
HERE is a link to an article about how the recent storms have uncovered more of the Bronze Age forests off the Cardiganshire coast near Borth.
Amazing photographs, and many thanks to the Daily Mail online, from whence I have copied them.
The tale of Cantre'r Gwaelod (the "Lower Hundred") is an interesting and ancient one, possibly far older than it has been given credit for, given that this is a sunken Bronze Age Forest (e.g. around 5,000 years ago this sank beneath the waves), and indeed, the legend may well chronicle the rising sea levels following the final melting from the Ice Age which finally ended about 6,000 years ago. Cantrer Gwaelod is the Welsh equivalent of Cornwall's Lyonesse going beneath the waves - our equivalent of Atlantis.
The first written record of this legend appeared in The Black Book of Carmarthen, which dates back to about 1250 and this stretch of the coastline (between Bardsey Island and Cardigan - basically, beneath what is now Cardigan Bay) was known as Maes Gwyddno (the Plain of Gwyddno). It extended some 20 miles from the present coastline. It was apparently low-lieing land which was protected from the sea by a series of sluice gates and a dyke known as St Patrick's Causeway. Its capital was Caer Gwyddno (the Fort of Gwyddno). In the Black Book of Carmarthen legend, it is a well-maiden, Mererid, who neglects her duties and because of this the well overflows and floods the land. In another version of the legend (the one I am familiar with), it is one of the two Princes of the realm (Seithenyn), well known for his drunken ways, who neglected to shut the floodgates and thus the land was inundated by the sea. A very similar tale is told of low-lying land higher up in Wales, Llys Helig (from what I recall "Llys" is always connected with a - high status - court). They both have the same link of the church bells being heard tolling when danger threatens. HERE is a link to the Wikipedia page on the subject.
This ancient forest has been known about and monitored in the past, and storms have removed its preserving (anaerobic) bed of peat, but never to this level and this has now extended further north towards Llys Helig?. Species of trees include Yew, Oak, and Pine and the recent discoveries, near to Ynyslas, were Oak and Pine trees. More excitingly, stretches of a wattle trackway have also been discovered and will be subject to dating tests to establish in which period it was built. HERE is a link to the Daily Mail article with further photographs. HERE is the BBC's take on this Legend.
There is some doubt as to whether Gwyddno Garanhir actually existed - or at least, in the land of Cantre'r Gwaelod. Historians have placed him in Merionethshire. Be that as it may, the basket of Gwyddno Garanhir was one of the Thirteen Treasures of the Island of Britain . This is a variation on the Christian loaves and fishes, as food for one man would be placed in the hamper, yet when it was opened, it was found to contain enough food for 100 men.
Anyway, after his productive lands (one acre would produce the same food as 4 acres would elsewhere in the Welsh kingdoms) were beneath the sea, Gwyddno Garanhir had to seek his fortune elsewhere in the less productive areas of Wales. His son, Elffin ap Gwyddno, was the foster father to Taliesin, who became one of the most famous of Welsh poets, who flourished in the 6th century. His name, translated from the Welsh, means "shining brow".
Now what, you may be asking, is the connection with our house? Well, when we first moved here, and our children went to Mother and Toddler Group in Brechfa, the Vicar, now Canon Patrick Thomas wrote a paragraph in the parish magazine, something along the lines of welcoming us to the parish, and how amazed he was that we had come to live at Ynyswen, as the Lloyd family (I think it was) were descendents of Gwyddno Garanhir, of ancient days. Gwyddno Garanhir's name may be translated thus: Gwyddno Long-Shanks; Crane-Legs or, Tall-Crane. Anyone who knows us by name, will instantly make the connection! Perhaps we had returned home?!
The tale of Cantre'r Gwaelod (the "Lower Hundred") is an interesting and ancient one, possibly far older than it has been given credit for, given that this is a sunken Bronze Age Forest (e.g. around 5,000 years ago this sank beneath the waves), and indeed, the legend may well chronicle the rising sea levels following the final melting from the Ice Age which finally ended about 6,000 years ago. Cantrer Gwaelod is the Welsh equivalent of Cornwall's Lyonesse going beneath the waves - our equivalent of Atlantis.
The first written record of this legend appeared in The Black Book of Carmarthen, which dates back to about 1250 and this stretch of the coastline (between Bardsey Island and Cardigan - basically, beneath what is now Cardigan Bay) was known as Maes Gwyddno (the Plain of Gwyddno). It extended some 20 miles from the present coastline. It was apparently low-lieing land which was protected from the sea by a series of sluice gates and a dyke known as St Patrick's Causeway. Its capital was Caer Gwyddno (the Fort of Gwyddno). In the Black Book of Carmarthen legend, it is a well-maiden, Mererid, who neglects her duties and because of this the well overflows and floods the land. In another version of the legend (the one I am familiar with), it is one of the two Princes of the realm (Seithenyn), well known for his drunken ways, who neglected to shut the floodgates and thus the land was inundated by the sea. A very similar tale is told of low-lying land higher up in Wales, Llys Helig (from what I recall "Llys" is always connected with a - high status - court). They both have the same link of the church bells being heard tolling when danger threatens. HERE is a link to the Wikipedia page on the subject.
This ancient forest has been known about and monitored in the past, and storms have removed its preserving (anaerobic) bed of peat, but never to this level and this has now extended further north towards Llys Helig?. Species of trees include Yew, Oak, and Pine and the recent discoveries, near to Ynyslas, were Oak and Pine trees. More excitingly, stretches of a wattle trackway have also been discovered and will be subject to dating tests to establish in which period it was built. HERE is a link to the Daily Mail article with further photographs. HERE is the BBC's take on this Legend.
There is some doubt as to whether Gwyddno Garanhir actually existed - or at least, in the land of Cantre'r Gwaelod. Historians have placed him in Merionethshire. Be that as it may, the basket of Gwyddno Garanhir was one of the Thirteen Treasures of the Island of Britain . This is a variation on the Christian loaves and fishes, as food for one man would be placed in the hamper, yet when it was opened, it was found to contain enough food for 100 men.
Anyway, after his productive lands (one acre would produce the same food as 4 acres would elsewhere in the Welsh kingdoms) were beneath the sea, Gwyddno Garanhir had to seek his fortune elsewhere in the less productive areas of Wales. His son, Elffin ap Gwyddno, was the foster father to Taliesin, who became one of the most famous of Welsh poets, who flourished in the 6th century. His name, translated from the Welsh, means "shining brow".
Now what, you may be asking, is the connection with our house? Well, when we first moved here, and our children went to Mother and Toddler Group in Brechfa, the Vicar, now Canon Patrick Thomas wrote a paragraph in the parish magazine, something along the lines of welcoming us to the parish, and how amazed he was that we had come to live at Ynyswen, as the Lloyd family (I think it was) were descendents of Gwyddno Garanhir, of ancient days. Gwyddno Garanhir's name may be translated thus: Gwyddno Long-Shanks; Crane-Legs or, Tall-Crane. Anyone who knows us by name, will instantly make the connection! Perhaps we had returned home?!
* * *
Keith and I never did get the chance to visit Borth at very low tide to see this relic forest, but perhaps Tam, Rosie and I can go in the future.
Keith and I never did get the chance to visit Borth at very low tide to see this relic forest, but perhaps Tam, Rosie and I can go in the future.
The reason for repeating this old post is that last night I happened upon a programme about this on Youtube (which has REALLY got me the right algorhythm!) - called The Mystery of the Kingdom that Sank into the Ocean. The series is called Cambrian Chronicles, so if you have an interest in Welsh History, you are in for a treat.
I am sat here swathed in the heated blanket which Tam bought for Keith's birthday a couple of years back. He wasn't enamoured of it but I use it when I want a sofa nap, and now, to avoid putting the central heating on when I'm on my own. When Tam and Rosie are here it will go on for an hour morning and evening, as they are sleeping on the blow up mattress on the floor and as they are co-sleeping, Tam can't have the covers up over her upper half, so gets chilly. Now that the helpful Labour Government have decided, as they can't touch the Pension Triple-Lock, they will get money back off us spoilt Pensioners by other nefarious means, I and millions of others have lost our heating allowance this winter. I filled the oil tank up in June, but need it to last until spring . . . So it's extra layers and blankets and hot drinks. We will be hit hard again in the Autumn budget, that's for certain. I quite expect to lose my bus pass before I've even used it, and senior rail cards are rumoured to be due for the chop too. Oh and then there's the plan for a "pay per mile" road tax, so your car is taxed even further than what is already put on petrol (which will also have a hike in price). Oh, and it is also strongly rumoured that single households will also have to pay full council tax, rather than have a 25% reduction. Grocery shopping will have to be severely curtailed here, that's for sure. All this now that as a widow, my income has come down by 2/3 with the loss of Keith's pensions.
I have been considering doing Air BnB or taking a lodger, but then I have to find an extra £1,000 or so for enhanced house insurance. Oh what joy.
I hope you enjoy the bit about Cantre'r Gwaelod anyway.
The beach at Borth is fascinating..we didn't catch it at a really low tde last time, but there are still remains visible.
ReplyDeleteYes, they are screwing us from every direction..and because they are doing it in England, using it as an excuse to reduce the block grant we get in Scotland...which has always been far less than the amounts going South if you look at the real figures and not listen to the hype...it is probably the same for Wales.
I just shake my head in utter dismay.
DeleteA fascinating story of lost land and strange coincidence about the names of previous owners of your old house.
ReplyDeleteIt is said the bells of all the lost Dunwich churches ring during storms too, doubt anyone has heard them lately!
When |I get woken by traffic or people I regret moving from Clay Cottage, but if we really are going to be hit by pence by mile tax and all the cuts then I'm glad I downsized when I did. A chunk of savings makes life much easier. Although if I was living in your beautiful place, I wouldn't want to move at all
Oh that old house had some history attached to it believe me. Wish we could have gone back in time (with a knowledge of Medieval Welsh!)
DeleteI don't want to leave here, as it suits me. We will have to see how it works out.
I wrote to our MP, one Henry Tufnell, regarding the vote, yesterday. His reply, while lengthy and comprehensive, said nothing. Full of air that is hotter than my living room will be this winter and written as one of those call centre operatives reading a scripted card. Unimpressed!
ReplyDeleteCantre Gwaelod was one of the first "legends" I remember learning. The Land Beneath the Sea in Cardigan Bay. We have the remains of a sunken forest here, Whitesands Bay, and evidence has been found going far into St Bride's Bay. Not a million miles from Cardigan Bay, the two must at one time have been part of a much greater forest covering the entire region and then some. Many a legend founded in distant fact.
What a waste of time, and he sounds like a complete waste of rations!
DeleteI didn't now that the Sunken Forest was visible further down too, but not surprised. I presume there is also a relict Forest off the coast of Cumbria (aka Rheged in the past) which is why the legend had some link to that area as well.
I remember reading a book many MANY years ago, and where the storyline said that the Romans tried walking across to Ireland from the UK, presumably when the tidal ranges were much lower, but they got drowned when the tide came in again. Don't think this was based on fact!
That was a fascinating read, and I love the photos.
ReplyDeleteIt could still be worth doing Airbnb or taking a lodger if you look carefully into the tax rules about it. It used to be that you could earn £3,000 tax free from your home, but you then could deduct all the allowable expenses, such as insurance, electricity from washing bedding etc before your tax bill was worked out.
It was the insurance that bothered me! Paying out £1,000 and then the neighbour might not get any/many people signing up for his courses! Hopefully I can work something out.
DeleteWhat beautiful photos, very evocotive. Had you read that Rachel Reeves has claimed almost £4,000 in energy support, I don't know how any of them can look us OAP's in the face. Hugs Xx
ReplyDeleteWhy doesn't that surprise me? They're a two faced lot aren't they? ALL politicians seem to be. Just out for themselves, not the people they say they are supporting.
DeleteThat sunken forest is absolutely mesmerizing...and what a fabulous story to go with it. Thank you so much for sharing it! My brain-wheels are turning!
ReplyDeleteAs for the budget cuts you mentioned -- good grief! - I don't even have words, to be honest. Why is it always the most vulnerable populations that get targeted?!? Absolutely inhumane. I could easily go off on an irate tirade here, but I'm preaching to the choir, I know. ~ Melanie xo
Well Melanie, us oldies can't exactly go on strike can we, and that's how you get money out of THIS Government. Well, I will just have to keep tightening the purse strings and listing possessions for sale on Fleabay.
DeleteYes, the sunken forest on the beach is fascinating. Two years ago I went to a talk (on the beach) given by Professor Martin Bates, on the prehistoric archaeology of the area when they had a special exhibition in the station museum featuring the 4,000 year old antlers and skull that his father also a prehistoric archaeologist and others had found in the bed of a river that ran onto the beach. The mud protected the bone from the acid in the peat. I'm still in the middle of watching the video but this -https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/506500/ also gives some interesting facts. If you're coming to Borth do come and have a cup of tea here. Most of my schedule is fairly flexible apart from Welsh class on Thursdays and riding on Fridays. Also check the tide times as the stumps are covered up at high tide. I haven't been up to Ynyslas recently but I understand there are a lot of stumps to be seen up there now and there are usually some visible at the sea wall end of Borth beach.
ReplyDeleteThat was me -anon. though I expect you probably guessed it.
ReplyDeleteMartin was one of the lecturers when I was at Lampeter Uni. His wife, Dr Jennifer Foster, took us for Iron Age Archaeology when we were doing our Access courses and she was brilliant. Martin very very good too. They moved to Reading Uni in the late 1990s I seem to remember but always intended to retire back to Wales, to Newport, Pembs in fact. Perhaps they have now.
DeleteI'll let you know if I'm heading to Borth, don't worry. I didn't know that the relict forest came up so far (and apparently lower down too).