Saturday, 10 May 2025

St Mary's Church, Hay-on-Wye.

 This church is beside the motte and bailey of the original castle in Hay.  Despite having been to Hay SO many times, I had never visited the church, despite walking past it, and even getting water from the spring nearby, and parking in the bailey of the castle regularly.  Anyway, it was worth the visit.


The origins of a church on this site date back to the 12th C.  when the Hay area was first settled by the Normans.  However, the building was largely rebuilt in the 1830s, through necessity one assumes.  It sits across the dingle from the remains of the original motte and bailey castle.  The bailey is now a car park . . .  On the other side of the road, along a little path, there is a natural spring which gives lovely water still. This area was originally part of the parish of Llanigon, which is some two or three miles out of Hay.  There is an interesting church, but sadly it was locked when Keith and I visited it.  The new parish of Hay was established around 1135.




This tombstone made from the local stone, which was prone to flaking, and some of the stones were illegible.  I bought a little booklet about the Gravestones, Tombs and Monuments, which was interesting.


Now here is a wonderful piece of history which you can see in your mind's eye unfolding here:  Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, gave a sermon here in March 1188 while on a tour around Wales to recruit for the third crusade. He was accompanied by Gerald of Wales, who recorded that, after the sermon in Hay, many young men ran to the Archbishop outside the castle to “take the Cross” (sign up for the crusade). Some of them were restrained by wives or friends, fearful of the dangers they would face overseas, who grabbed their cloaks – but the men slipped out of their cloaks and dashed forward.  SEE this link.


Maria Quatermain Tickell (there is a One-name group for this surname and it hails from Yorkshire).  I was interested in the Quatermain part of her name - only heard that in Allan Quatermain, hero of the novels by H Rider Haggard, which I enjoyed in my teens.


St Mary's was described as "ruinous" around 1700, a chapel dedicated to St John having been established closer to the "new" castle, where the main focus of the town now is, by the market place.  The chapel was subsequently reused as a schoolhouse, as St Mary's was rebuilt in the 1830s.  Only the 15th C tower remains of the earlier building.  The interior is very pleasant, with a gallery on the north and west sides.


A very interesting early memorial to the Gwynn family (known as the Gwynn stone) and was removed from its previous situation in the old choir vestry.



An early Christian stone with a Celtic type cross. Undated.




This stone effigy is by tradition supposed to be that of Maud Walbee - Mathilda de Braose (read Lady of Hay by Barbara Erskine!!).  The booklet says that it is probably from the tomb of one of the early vicars.  I know which explanation I prefer!

This is the Watkins stone - William Watkins Gent Who this   dc . . . . rnc. . .h of the end prepare, , , I.. S.c.f.e.t   Life amen.  Uncertain ten . . . . God most Will likewise ??

COKRSTC??  Surrounding inscription Aged 75 and having issue       Heare L     Wat . . . of Tregoyd Gent.






Sculpted details on capitals.



The colonnade  had a series of heads at the joining of the arches, and beautiful sculpted details on the capitals at the tops of the columns.


The pulpit is octagonal and constructed of marble and alabaster, the bottom being arcaded and supported by polished marble pillars.  It bears the following inscription:  "Erected by Francis Robert Trumper, to the glory of God, in memory of his beloved wife Emma, who died Nov. 15th, 1865, and of her mother, Fortune Higgins, who died April 28rd, 1860." (Taken from the Wikipedia entry).


I believe this is "Abraham" by Arthur J.  Dix, c. 1906.The 3 coloured glass windows were at the behest of Trumper in memory of his wife.


There is a small side chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Capel-y-Ffin.  This link will explain the connection.  Capel-y-Ffin is my favourite little church near Llantony Priory, high up in the hills of Hay Bluff.






The rather splendiferous Bevington organ, dating from 1833 and with 2000 pipes.  It was formerly in several country houses, before being donated to St Mary's by Holmer Church, Hereford.


The first dog rose - flowering in the car park by the castle (now pay and display!  Drat!! It used to be my free parking place.


Norah Barlow Aquilegias in the early morning sun.


Final bit of baking, and first cakes I have drizzle iced in many years (can't be faffed usually).  Primroses courtesy of my garden.  Lemon Drizzle x 2. Looking at them now, I should have been more creative and made a little posy in the middle but I was trying to hide any dark bits the icing didn't cover . . .

Enjoy your weekend.  I am preparing to do a car boot sale tomorrow.  Glutton for punishment aren't I?

14 comments:

  1. Interesting Church- I shall now look on a map as I can't remember where the church is from any Hay visit.

    Your lemon drizzle look very good - I've not done any cake baking apart from cheese scones for ages must remedy that.

    Have fun at the Car boot sale!

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    1. It's off to the left of the town, as you are coming in from Brecon direction. The road has a sharp left turn beside the Swan Hotel. The cakes looked pretty. Hopefully they will taste good too. When I carried them in there was a chorus of approval anyway!

      Apart from the wee car boot sale last Monday, haven't been to a car boot sale for at least a year, possibly two. They just aren't on in this area.

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  2. Such incredible architecture. It must have been a huge undertaking to build this.

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    1. There was a LOT of rebuilding of churches in Victorian times - many, many were in a ruinous condition and the good and the Godly amongst the Victorians put their hands deep into their pockets to pay for restorations (in many cases very little of the original church fabric remained).

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  3. What a beautiful church. Haven't been to Hay for many years, the last time with my bff, who is now seriously ill in Papworth Hospital. Hope your car boot sale goes well, I shall keep my fingers crossed the weather holds and there are lots of buyers. Xx

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  4. It is a nice church. So sorry to hear about your bff, and hope that Papworth can help. It's normally a busy car boot sale. Just hope we don't have a thunderstorm!

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  5. those cakes look so tempting. I treated myself to some Welsh Cakes at the little Saturday pop up shop my neighbour runs throughout the spring and summer months today.

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    1. I don't blame you for treating yourself to the Welsh cakes. At least I can have a break from baking now. In fact, next week I will have a break from everything and give myself a day out.

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  6. Such an interesting church - sadly I didn't have time to visit when we were in Hay. Rather a splendid organ! Love the idea of the stone effigy being of Maud Walbee and I have read the brilliant Barbara Erskine book. I also have a non fiction book on Mathilda (may be by Logaston Press? can't check now sorry as it is in Herefordshire and I am back home). Lemon Drizzle cakes look delicious.

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    1. Well, that gives you an excuse to come back. Do visit on market day as there are some excellent stalls. The church was more interesting than I expected it to be. The Giraldus Cambrensis bit and young men desperate to go on Crusade, with their loved ones desperate to stop them - happened within spitting distance, at the castle next door.

      I have that Mathilda book too. Excellent reading.

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  7. I read that book!!!! Actually owned it and it might still be in the bookcase, must look as it is up for a reread. A very interesting church.

    God bless.

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  8. You'll have to get another copy Jackie if you can't find it, as it is SUCH a good read and probably my favourite of all her books. Knowing Hay as well as I do, I can see it all so clearly.

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  9. Thank you for posting about the church. I really enjoy looking around ones when we go anywhere new and always like it when Sue in Suffolk posts about her local churches. Good luck with the car boot.

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  10. Fascinating church the workmanship was so good. I liked the first gravestone, such an elegant design as was the memorial to the Gwynn family.

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